Published Photos

Paddler Magazine, July/August 2006, Ender page 98, "The real reason fish swim in schools."

Paddler Magazine, July/August 2006, Saltwater Flyers, page 74.

Fly Rod & Reel Magazine, March 2005, "A Texas-size TU Chapter," pic page 14.

Trout Magazine, Winter 2005, ad for Fly Rod & Reel Magazine, pic page 9.

Shallow Water Magazine, Jan 2005, "Trails to Texas Tranquility."

Southwest Fly Fishing Magazine, Fall 2004, "School of Hard Rocks," (Fly fishing the north jetty at Port Aransas)

Southwest Fly Fishing Magazine, Summer issue 2004, "Blanco River."

Fly Rod & Reel Magazine, July/Oct 2004, "Kayak story," pic page 54 & 55

Past Columns

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Nov 2006, Kayak Column, "Strokes for Different Folks"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Aug 2006, Kayak Column, "Fenced in"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, July 2006, Kayak Column, “This is Not Belize”

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, June 2006, Kayak Column, "Jose Can You See"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, May 2006, Kayak Column, "No Pain, Reel Gain"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Apr 2006, Kayak Column, "Weather Nots"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Sept-Oct 2004, Kayak Column, "Paddling Safety Measures Make Cents"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, August 2004, Kayak Column, "Lock Stock and Ferrules"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, July 2004, Kayak Column, "Paddle Power, Part 2"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, June 2004, Kayak Column, "Paddle Power, Part 1"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, May 2004, Kayak Column, "10 Steps to Spring into a Kayak Cure"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, April 2004, Kayak Column, "Kayaker Killed"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, January 2004, Kayak Column, "Kayak Maintenance"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Sept/Oct 2003, Kayak Column, "Do's and Don'ts of Kayaking"

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, August 2003, Kayak Column, "Buying a New Kayak"

Past Articles

Fly Fishing in Salt Waters Magazine, March/April 2005, "Rig Up to Ride Out."

Southwest Fly Fishing Magazine, Winter 2005, "Fishing Under the Lights."

Southwest Fly Fishing Magazine, Fall 2005, "Nueces River."

Standard Examiner, Ogden Utah newspaper, May 5, 2005, Tackle-busting redfish the bulls of the Texas flatlands by Dave Scadden

Corpus Christi Caller-Times, May 1, 2005, Kayak-ety yakking by David Sikes.

Shallow Water Magazine, Jan 2005, "Trails to Texas Tranquility" by Robert Sloan

Texas Fish & Game Magazine, December 2004, "What to get the Kayaker for Christmas" by Greg Burlocher.

San Antonio Express News, Sept 19, 2004, "A Guiding Hand" by Ron H. Strait.

Southwest Fly Fishing Magazine, Fall 2004, "School of Hard Rocks," (Fly fishing the north jetty at Port Aransas) by Lefty Ray Chapa.

Corpus Christi Caller-Times, July 4, 2004, "Spoon Feeding" by David Sikes.

Daily Camera, Boulder, CO, June 4, 2004 "This time, taking rain check on fishing was well worth it" by Ed Engle.

Field & Stream, Summer 2004, "Texas-Size Flats" by Doug Pike

Corpus Christi Caller-Times, Nov 16, 2003, "To Wade or Not to Wade?" by David Sikes.

Houston Chronicle, July 20, 2003, "Kayaks are a Smooth Fit" by Doug Pike.

Houston Chronicle, July 17, 2003, Aransas Pass, a Quiet Getaway by Doug Pike.

Corpus Christi Caller-Times, July 6, 2003, Back to the Paddle by David Sikes.

Texas Fly Report, July 2003, Sight Casting Strategies for the Texas Shallow Water Flats by Lefty Ray Chapa

Texas Parks & Wildlife Magazine, June 1999,  Fly Fishing the Texas Hill Country by Lefty Ray Chapa

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Nov 2006, Kayak Column, "Strokes for Different Folks"

Jose, my long time fishing partner, once told me that they key to a successful outdoor outing is to be able to survive it so that you can do it again. Following his philosophy, it makes sense that kayak fishing is more popular than alligator wresting or playing tag with a stingray.

While on the surface, kayaking across a shallow water flat with a sit-on-top kayak looks tranquil and rates very low on the stress meter. In reality a person needs to be in fairly good shape and be knowledgeable on how to prevent any injuries from the time they leave their house until they arrive at the edge of the water.

Most kayak fisherman dream of obtaining a kayak trailer, but most rely on a vehicle rack of some sort to transport their kayak to the water. When mounting a kayak on top of a vehicle try bending your knees when lifting the kayak up instead of bending your back to do the heavy lifting. A typical kayak weighs about 70 pounds and this will stress your lower back if you lift it incorrectly. If a fellow kayaker is nearby ask for help or offer to help if they are uploading theirs.

A small step ladder can elevate you to help position the tie down straps, but do not forget that you are up in the air. One morning several years ago Jose was once balancing on the doorway of his jeep when he tried to reach a tie down strap but his arm was a couple of inches short. Next thing I head was a loud thump as he hit the driveway. In the early morning darkness I heard “who moved my fender?”

In the early days of Texas kayak fishing and before the advent of Tent-Cots, household budgets were tight but the fishing itch still needed to be scratched. Leaving San Antonio at 3:00 am so that we would arrive at daybreak, fish all day, and then driving home was fairly common.

Arriving safely was always the objective and usually not an issue. The other drivers on the road were the problem. One time Jose and I said the same thing at the same time, “Do you see that truck?” It was still dark and we were somewhere between Three Rivers and Mathis, TX on I-37 heading to Port Aransas and we both spotted the headlights of a truck heading towards us. The only problem was that he was on our side of the interstate. The approaching driver was not weaving but was traveling at a high rate of speed. We slowed down and moved over to the right shoulder. He passed us without incident but we always wondered what happened behind us. Most of the early morning traffic included a large number of vehicles towing bass boats on their way to Lake Corpus Christi. This era was after the popularity of CB radios and before cel phones were commonplace, so we really had no way to alarm anyone or the authorities.

Arriving at the edge of the water a headlamp can illuminate your way around the darkness. Looking down as well as up is just as important. Most of the kayak launching spots in the Port Aransas/Aransas Pass areas tend to be made up of hard packed sand, but a pothole invariably will cross your path.

Sliding your kayak of the top of your vehicle is the most dangerous step in getting it to the edge of the water. Sliding it off entails the use of your arms above your head. Wrists, arms, and shoulders become vulnerable. I speak from first hand experience as my right shoulder gave out while unloading my kayak just recently. There is no alternative to this outstretched position. Even with the help of a second person, you still have to pull it out to some degree and lower it down relying on your arms and shoulders. Once you have lowered it waist high, then use your legs (again) rather than your back to get it to the ground.

If the edge of the water is quite some distance from your parked vehicle the using a wheeled kayak cart to get it here will make it effortless. Enter “kayak kart” in any internet search engine and various models will pop up as well as blueprints for constructing homemade versions.

At the edge of the water, float your kayak out until the water is mid-calf deep, then enter it. At this water level it will be like sitting on a chair. Any less and it will be like sitting on the floor which puts more stress on your back. At higher water levels than mid-calf, you will have hop up to get in.

A kayak seat if crucial for healthy paddling and comfort. All sit-on-top kayaks have a molded area where you butt should be positioned. Trying to paddle without a seat will kill your back in the first 20 to 40 minutes of paddling. This is one area where you do not want to scrimp and save pennies. A high-backed seat is highly recommended. Stay away from the ones that look like a band. The high-backed ones should extend up about 16 inches. The better ones will have four adjustments points where you can custom fit it to your body size. Make sure the sides curve around your lower back. The rear back portion should actually tilt forward a bit, that way when you sit in it, it will stretch back to the correct position. So of the fancier models have an inflatable lumbar section which gives further back support. A tell-tale sign that your seat is incorrectly adjusted is if you back starts to hurt after the first hour of paddling.

Correct paddling techniques have previously been covered, but a correct paddling stroke saves wear and tear on your elbows and distributes the movement over a larger number of body parts. Contact a kayak instructor or take some paddling classes for the best instruction on how to do this correctly.

Personal health is also a key item to take into consideration. Know your limits, anticipate the hot temperatures you will probably encounter, and gauge the distance you might cover. Never under estimate your physical shape or the environment. If what you are doing is fun and enjoyable, then remember the key is to survive so that you can return and do this activity again and hopefully for a long time afterwards. 

When I meet a client in the predawn hours, I try to size them up physically and mentally. While many retirees make up the bulk of my clientele a lot of them are in better shape than most people 20 years younger. Once I had a husband and wife couple, who were retired, join me for a day of kayak fishing. I asked the wife before we shoved off, “What kind of shape was her husband in?” She said he was OK as long as he took his heart medicine. The first thought that flashed through my mind was having to call the Coast Guard on my VHF radio while attempting to give CPR. Different strokes for different folks indeed.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Aug 2006, Kayak Column, "Fenced in"

The Lighthouse Lakes Trail (LHL) and the Brown & Root Flats (B&R) continue to be the focus of many kayak fishermen. These two areas constitute what I consider the “Kayak Fishing Capital” of Texas if not the country.

Over time most fishermen will try to seek more areas to fish. There is nothing more alluring than “new-to-me” un-fished spots on the map. Kayak fishermen without access to a bay boat are restricted to areas limited by their physical ability and time available.

If you have a bay boat available more options open up. It is not uncommon to load a kayak or two and head to un-crowded waters.

Another option is to use a ferry service like Tommy Moore’s Skimmer to transport a party to a remote location. Tommy uses his 38 foot double decked boat for bird watching excursions during the winter. The endangered whooping cranes are the highlight of that tour. During the summer, kayak excursions take over and fishing far off locations become within reach.

Loading kayaks are the first order of business in the predawn hours. Tommy docks his boat at Fulton Harbor across the back lane from the Charlotte Plummer restaurant. Teamwork is needed as the kayaks are carried up the front stairway to the open top deck. Kayaks should be kept empty while loading. There is plenty of room in the below deck cabin for your paddle, fishing rods, and other kayak gear.

A current popular destination is across the bay to Fence Lake. This area is on the back side of St. Joe Island. A short ride gets you there in no time and an organized unloading effort gets you paddling rather quickly.

As always, which way to go is the first question to answer. Fence Lake is similar to the LHL. The bottom is firm, some seagrass exists, and mangrove islands abound in the distance 

A short list of what to take includes binoculars, lots of drinking water, and a communication device.

Binoculars will help determine if the far off tails are from redfish, mullet, or cow-nosed rays. Also because of the lower than normal water level, any wading birds spotted in the distance usually means it is too shallow to paddle even for a kayak.

Plenty of drinking water is always a firm rule. Civilization is miles away and across the bay. Getting dehydrated is easily avoidable by packing several bottles of water.

A fishing party should always carry some sort of communication device. A cel phone will work, but some service providers are better than others. The best device is a VHF radio. These radios work better than the Motorola type walkie-talkies. Fishing chatter can be conducted on channel 69. In the event of an emergency, the Coast Guard can be reached on channel 16. Tommy’s boat can also be reached on the VHF in the event bad weather interrupts the day or in case of an emergency.

Fence Lake is a popular destination with the bay boat crowd and often a string of wading fishermen can be found on the outside edge trying their hand in deeper water. Several cuts lead into Fence Lake so avoiding the bay boat crowd is possible. Once inside a systematic search might lead you to some tailing reds. Paddling around is easy because St. Joe Island offers protection from the prevalent east-southeast wind.

For those that paddle deep enough into the lake will actually encounter an actual fence. A series of old wooden fence posts bisect one particular area. I am not all that familiar with this area, but I suspect this is why the lake got its name. No barbed wire extends from the posts, but the distance from post to post is wide enough for a kayaker to zig-zag around all of them in a downhill skier fashion. What the fence retained is unknown, but the ranch on the island is known to run cattle. Nowadays redfish can be found on both sides of the fence and a redfish rodeo can be had if a large enough school is located.

A constant reminder that this is ranch land is the sound of grunting pigs that permeate the air. While no pigs have been sighted, it is the cormorants that are the culprit.

If the water level is lower than 15 inches, but above your ankles, tailing reds may not occur. Instead look for roundish humps extending out of the water. These will be redfish cruising with their backs exposed. In this extra skinny water care must be exercised in approaching any fish. While casting from a standing position is preferable, you might have to paddle into position and cast from the kayak.

Take note when entering any lake. It should be evident if the tide is dropping or coming in. Beware because sometimes the tidal movement does not always adhere to the tidal prediction for the day. A kayaker should always be aware of the water around them. Should the tide drop rapidly you might not have enough water to paddle out and the last thing desirable is to get fenced in at a place like Fence Lake.

Captain Tommy Moore can be reached at 877-892-4737 or at www.rockportadventures.com

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, July 2006, Kayak Column, “This is Not Belize”

The hardcore group of kayak anglers who chase redfish with a stealthy sit-on-top kayak considers themselves more “hunters” than fishermen. The ability to sneak up on a school of tailing reds is comparable to bow hunting for deer. Both require stalking ability, camouflaged clothing to blend into your surroundings, noiseless movement, and an accurate shot or cast from a rather short distance.

Both also require adequate footwear for the job. Granted that some kayak fisherman tend to fish from their kayak rather than wade a shallow water flat. It is the wade fisherman that needs to pay special attention to their footwear.

Kayakers who paddle freshwater rivers and lakes often wear low cut water shoes or river sandals. Both are very comfortable but totally inadequate for a shallow water flat.

For the most part areas like the Lighthouse lakes Trails or the Brown & Root Flat on the middle Texas coast have a pretty firm bottom and an average depth of 15 inches of clear water. Invariably a wading kayaker will step onto a soft spot and sink about ankle deep into a hole or come across some submerged, very sharp, oyster shell. Low cut water shoes might last 10 steps before losing one in a hole and water sandals will last until a toe or two gets cut. In either event your fishing day is over because you are unable to wade or you need medical attention. Any oyster cut needs immediate attention as infection is a serious concern.

In the early days of kayak fishing my friends and I would rely on neoprene diving booties which were only found in dive shops. These were barely adequate as the soles were very thin and needed bolstering with add-on insoles. The tops came up ankle high which was good, but we never really liked the compromise of trying to build up the thickness of the soles.

Not long after that the fly fishing gear manufacturers like Simms, Patagonia, and Orvis started introducing ankle-high neoprene booties with thick soles. Although a bit pricey at first, they did the job nicely. Wearing a sock is recommended as this keeps out the little bits of shell and most of the sand. People that wear them without socks often end up pulling off the booties mid-day to dump out the accumulation of debris.

Today ankle-high booties are pretty common, readily available, and very affordable. Brands like Shimano and Hodgeman come to mind, but there are many others. The key is to find a pair with thick soles and a comfortable fit. Booties that are too tight to begin with will become tighter as your foot swells throughout the day. I remember one particular gentleman whose new booties cut short our fishing day because his booties were too tight and caused major pain as the day progressed.

The latest in footwear include lace up wading boots. Most are lightweight so the word “boots” is overkill. Currently I am wearing the Simms brand which they call their “Flats Sneaker.” I was very skeptical about this style of footwear. I feared the laces would come undone all of the time and perhaps the amount of entering debris would increase. What I found was the laces were not an issue and I got less debris inside versus the neoprene booties.

Some customers have arrived with various stingray footwear protection and this achieves some type of comfort level for them. While I would never chide someone for wearing this type of gear, just remember that it may cause more noise while wading. The Ray-Guard Reef boots are popular as are the Predator Reef boots.

Underwater noise is a factor in footwear selection, but the biggest reduction in noise can come from tucking in your pants for those that do not wade in shorts. While tucking in your pant legs into your sock or bootie does make you look goofy, it will minimize any noise that results from a pant leg flapping through the water as you wade.

Whenever I make the follow up phone call for an upcoming guided trip, I will ask about footwear. While I go through the description of what is required, sometimes it does not register with the client. So far I have had clients arrive with sandals, low cut kayak river booties, Tevas, water shoes, tennis shoes, flip flops, etc. Comfort and adequate protection footwear is very important for areas like the middle Texas coast. Wearing inadequate footwear will limit the type of fishing that is available and may short change the rest of the fishing party who are expecting to wade. The most memorable client who arrived with the wrong footwear told me that this is what he wore in Belize. I told him, “This is NOT Belize.”

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, June 2006, Kayak Column, "Jose Can You See"

The first of July marks the halfway point of summer. This means fireworks in the sky, fish on the flats, and water as smooth as glass. This is the beginning of the best part of the year for sight casting to redfish in shallow water.

 Visibility is key to success. The first step is to arrive at your kayak launch point while it is still dark. Use a headlamp to assist yourself while unloading your kayak from your vehicle and while rigging up. Keep constantly moving as the mosquitoes may try to make a meal out of your legs and arms. One of my fellow kayaking friends who I shall rename Jose once let his kayak fall off of his Jeep as a horde of mosquitoes came upon him in the darkness and bit him as he was unloading. He did not have a headlamp so I could not see him jumping around, but I do I remember him yelling and hearing a loud “thump” as his kayak hit the ground and compacted the sand just a little bit more.

 Right before sunrise there is just enough of sunlight to allow you to launch without needing a TPWD required 360 degree white light. This is also when I don my polarized sunglasses. Jose once told me I was crazy because the sun was not even out yet. I explained that my amber/brownish lens increased the contrast and in that low light the whites went whiter and the dark colors darker. He still did not understand so I pointed out that the 15 inch deep flat we were paddling on was real glassy with an almost white or very light gray color to it. With my glasses on it became lighter in color. I further explained that any disturbance in the water would appear darker in color, almost black because the low light does not allow any color to be distinguishable. This meant that any nervous water, wakes, or tails would appear as black lines bulges, or triangles and very easy to spot. I told Jose to look for triangles.

 The period from sunup until 10:00 am is when I concentrate on surface activity. The sun is too low to enable viewing into the clear water at this point. The glassier the water surface, the easier to spot anything sticking out.

 As we reached the middle of the flat Jose said “I see tails.” I raised my binoculars up to my eye to take a peak. Jose could not believe I brought something he considered “hunting gear” to go fishing with. I pointed out that we were “hunting,” and in fact “hunting for redfish.” He also thought I would ruin them because any water, salt or fresh, might seep into them at some point during the day. I mentioned that they were a waterproof model and that I typically rinsed them out in the sink at the end of each day on the water.

 Through the binoculars I could clearly see that the activity was just a large school of cow-nosed rays. Each ray was flapping both of their wings above the surface of the water. From a distance it looked like a school of tailing reds, but through the binoculars I could see that the tips were thicker and had a leathery texture. We paddled on.

 The next school we came upon was right on the money. Black triangles were up signifying tailing reds. An occasional bulge would appear from a red’s broad shoulder as it chased some baitfish.

 One of the benefits of kayak fishing is being able to get very close to your quarry without being detected. There is no motor noise to scare away the fish and the low height of a kayak keeps you under the fish’s cone of vision. When getting out of a kayak so that you can make a cast, it helps if you can drop the anchor, secure the paddle, and exit the kayak without making noise. It also helps if you can do this very quickly without making any noise. Sound travels 10 times faster underwater so an errant noise can send fish scurrying off.

 While Jose had the kayak exit down pat, his fish ID was still off. The first fish he cast to was definitely a mullet. I insisted that casting to very pointy tails that moved in a very jittery zig zag fashion were NOT reds. Reds tend to move with a sense of purpose and make “U” shaped wakes and not “V” shaped ones. I warned him not to spook any fish because they would fly out of there like a rocket. I almost gave up on him when he asked about the “W” shaped wakes. Rather than telling him it was 2 mullets, I said he was reading it upside down and it stood for “Mullet” and please do not cast to them.

 As the day progressed the sun got higher in the sky. I told Jose we could now probably see “into” the water and that we would wade downwind and down-sun. From 10:00 am until 3:00pm, a clear water flat is illuminated so that sight casting is very easy. Usually reds do not tail this late in the day so we would have to shift our focus from the surface of the water to subsurface. The waters of the Texas coastal bend benefit from a typical East-South-East wind. This aids sight casting in conjunction with a high overhead sun. I told Jose we would “follow our shadow” so that our visibility would be at its maximum. I also mentioned that while our polarized glasses would remove any glare it would be the amber/brown lens that would help us the most. He was not sure what I meant so I pointed to this underwater bush. Its color was reddish-brown, making it very conspicuous against the green grass and sandy bottom. I said that this shade of lens would enhance a red’s color whether it was reddish, brown, or maroon and make it stick out. I said that family of colors would almost glow underwater and that we would actually have an edge over people wearing gray polarized glasses because gray only removes the glare.

 As we waded down a bit, it was not too long before I spotted a red and said “Jose, can you see . . . “ and before I could finish the sentence he had made cast and got a solid hookup as the rocket’s red glare streaked off into the flat.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, May 2006, Kayak Column, "No Pain, Reel Gain"

I saw a billboard for the US Marines that said, “Pain is weakness leaving the body.” While I would never equate fighting a war with fighting a fish, there are some ways to avoid and prevent pain that will make you a better kayaker.

 Most kayak fisherman do very little paddling during our mild winters. The great physical shape they attained during the past summer season often deteriorates. During the off-season some type of exercise is recommended to stay in decent shape. At the minimum, push-ups will keep the arms toned-up and sit-ups will keep your middle section in check. In the past I have mentioned machines that will simulate paddling which will specifically keep your arms and shoulders in tip top shape. The key is to do something. Visiting the gym or using the treadmill at home are good choices.

 Regrettably most kayak fisherman forget about staying in shape during the off season and once spring arrives fishing fever becomes pretty rampant. That first trip is often followed by a long night of sore muscles, sun burned skin, and possibly loss of sleep.  

To prevent backaches, adjust your kayak seat to where it fits snug around your lower back. The adjustment straps do stretch over time and last season’s settings may now be too loose. Typically you want the seat-back to be inclined slightly forward. Once you are sitting in it, your body will stretch the straps to where the seat will be ideally positioned in an upright manner.

 Early in the season taking some kind of pain reliever in the morning before hitting the water might be a good idea. Depending on your body, this might prevent some body aches afterwards. As always consult your family doctor for the best advice on this issue.

 A good high-rated sunscreen is high on my list. Currently SPF ratings of 30 and 45 are common. The higher the number, the stronger the protection. The key is to apply it before you hit the water. Re-application on the water, if necessary, is also a good idea. Most people forget to put some on and when they remember it is often way too late to afford any protection.

 A kayak fisherman needs to remember to apply sunscreen especially to the back of their necks, hands, ears, and knees. Casting is done primarily with the sun behind you for best visibility into the water which makes those specific body parts vulnerable. The days of running around with a raccoon looking tan outline on your face are over. This is not a badge of fishing prowess, but a sign of stupidity. The sun can and will damage your skin if you do not protect it adequately.

 In the pre-dawn morning light, after you have rigged up you kayak, do not forget to do a little stretching. Most athletes will do a pre-game warm-up before a big game and kayak fisherman should do the same. Bend down to touch your toes, rotate at the waist, twist your arms, etc. Do anything and everything to wake up your body muscles.

 Once on the water, a proper paddling technique will keep you going like the Energizer bunny. Avoid paddling only with your elbows. Twist at the waist and use your shoulder muscles and arms. The more body parts you use, the less strain on your elbows. This technique will enable you to paddle all day long if done correctly.

As we get older, the battle to stay in shape becomes harder. Kayak fishing will help you stay in shape when you are prepared adequately and performed correctly. Fishing longer becomes easier if your body parts do not give out prematurely. By following a few steps you can achieve no pain and accomplish reel gain.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Apr 2006, Kayak Column, "Weather Nots"

The very first computers were made in an effort to make weather predictions. These first beasts were made of tubes and wires and were the size of automobiles. Their job was to take all of the variables (temperatures, wind speed, barometer, etc.) and make an accurate forecast. Often, if a muffler bearing did not give out, the results were off, way off.  

About 20 years ago a group of us from San Antonio starting making the weekend treks to the middle Texas coast with our fly rods. We would hope and pray that the weather would be decent and the wind speeds would be near calm or very low. Many times we would awake on Saturday morning to find it very windy for fly rods and we would pull out Plan B which was our spinning gear. We figured because we traveled so far why not have a backup plan and make the most of it. 

10 years ago the same group of friends started hauling kayaks to coast but still faced the same problem, inconsistent weather reports. Sometimes the best way to gauge the Saturday morning wind was to peak out the motel window to see if the nearby flags were limp or waving at a brisk attention. A drooping flag meant fly rods were in order and the anticipation level was near sky high.

 Today the internet can give us up to date weather information on just about any spot in the country if not the world. What I recommend to people who plan on kayak fishing the weekend is to look at some weather sites starting on Wednesday and keep track of the “trend.”

First, see what the wind direction is. For the middle Texas coast the typical wind comes from the East-South-East (ESE). A stable wind from this direction means clear water which allows a very good chance of sight casting to redfish. Also take note of the wind speed from daybreak until mid-afternoon. Once the full summer season is upon us, the winds tend to be very light first thing in the morning and increases as the day progress. Overnight it tends to lay down and then the cycle repeats itself.

 A good website to check the wind data is www.accuweather.com . Just input your destination and click on the button that says “Past 24 Hours.” Here you can view the daily trend. Do this several days prior to your trip. Kayaking in wind speeds over 15mph is not advisable.  

While tidal levels do not really rise and fall great distances on the middle Texas coast on a normal basis, they still deserve a look. A tide chart will give you the expected movement but it may not be accurate because the weather affects it. A sustained North-West (NW) wind may blow out all of the water off a flat even if the chart shows a high tide of 1 ½ feet. This tide internet site, http://hyper20.twdb.state.tx.us/data/bays_estuaries/tides.html , shows the predicted level against the actual level. If the trend shows both lines overlapping then normal tide action can be expected. A good rule of thumb is “No water, no fish.” Sometimes too much water, like resulting from a hurricane surge, can be viewed on this table. When the actual tide level graph line is above the expected level line, then expect the parking areas to be covered with water. Kayaking during a surge is not advisable because of all of the critters that get pushed in from the surge. Most notable are the families of jelly fish which could harm wading fisherman.

 Radar coverage has expanded to where the entire state is covered and you do not have to wait until 10:00pm to see “the big picture.” www.intellicast.com has some of the best radar coverage and larger radar pictures to check out. It has a “loop” option which means the weather activity in that region can be played to see its movement. If a line of thunderstorms are approaching, these will be visible on the radar. Kayaking during storms with lightening is not advisable.

 While kayak fishing on the water take time to check the sky all around you. This prevents some thunderstorm from sneaking up on you. Also keep track if the temperature drops or if the wind makes a sustain direction change. If the forecast calls for scattered showers take some rain gear. I have found that by having it on board, it is the best insurance against getting drenched.

 Handheld wind meters are available to read the wind speed. In lieu of that keep track of the surface of the water. At some point high winds will create whitecaps even on a flat of 15 inches of water. Once you see white, it is time to head back in. Most of the middle Texas flats require a deep channel to be crossed and whitecaps and deep water make a precarious crossing over at best.

Just recently the second day of a 2-day kayak fishing seminar was postponed due to high wind. A notebook sized computer called a laptop connected to the internet showed that the winds did not lay down overnight. At 5:00am it was howling at 20mph. This meant the wind was not going to let us on the flats in a safe manner. As computers have gotten smaller, the accuracy has gotten better. As kayak fisherman get smarter, concerning the weather, they will know when the weather will not permit a safe outing.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Sept-Oct 2004, "Paddling Safety Measures Make Cents"

Paddling across a shallow water flat with the sun barely peaking over the horizon, looking for a school of tailing reds is one of the unique things you can do on the Texas coast. Getting there safely in the morning and back at the end of your paddle is very important.  

TP&WD requires kayakers to have a PFD for every person. They do not require an adult to wear it, but just to have it within reach. When kayaking the Lighthouse lakes area or the Brown & Root flats a deep channel must be crossed. It makes good sense to wear your PFD while crossing over.  

A past client of mine related a story of how he went kayaking on a stretch of a river swollen with rain runoff. He tried to anchor and fish, but once the anchor caught the bottom his kayak overturned. He was not wearing his PFD but instead had it behind his seat. He was thrown into the water and barely had a chance to grab a hold of the kayak. For moments that seemed like forever he hung for his life in the strong current. Eventually someone came along, discovered him, and got some help. He lost some gear, broke a rod, but escaped with his life intact. Today he wears his PFD religiously.  

Prices of PFD’s range from a basic bright orange vest which costs less than $10 to a high tech kayaker vest which may run as high as $150. Most of the better kayaker style PFD’s cost from $80 to $150. The difference is the these types of vests are cut high on the waist so that they are more comfortable than conventional vests when paddling. The armholes are bigger so that arm movement is not restricted when paddling.  

Multiple adjustable straps on the sides ensure a snug fit. The shoulder straps tend to also be adjustable. A bright color like yellow or red is recommended so that it will easily visible by boaters and other fisherman.  

Lotus Designs currently makes a kayaker PFD for people that use a high back seat on their kayak. This particular PFD has a floatation panel high on the rear of the PFD. The rest of the back section is made of mesh to compensate for the high back seat. This mesh section also keeps you cooler while paddling. 

TP&WD also requires a whistle to be worn. This can easily be attached to your PFD. Many styles exist and all claim to make a very loud noise.  

If your plans include kayak fishing in the dark, a white 360 degree light is required. Scotty, the maker of kayak rod-holders makes two types of lights that will fit their rod-holder base. A homemade one can be constructed with a section of thin diameter PVC and a small flashlight taped to it. A translucent cone placed over the lighted end will turn it into an all around light. The red/green light seen on power boats is not required. The white light needs to be on between dusk and dawn. It is a good idea to turn it on during times of low light like when a storm rolls in and visibility deteriorates. 

A basic first aid kit should be brought along. Falling while wading is probably the most common occurrence and getting cut by a piece of oyster shell is very dangerous. Besides typical band-aids, large band-aids or bandages cover larger affected areas. A disinfectant like a tube of Neosporin or a small bottle with oxygen peroxide will help clean out a wound before bandaging.  

Think along the lines of the “worst case scenario” that might happen to you while paddling alone. Imagine if you fell and suffered a serious cut to one of your hands. Would you have the necessary items to bandage yourself up AND paddle back?  

Another safety related item would be a paddle leash. These are small diameter cords (elastic or non-elastic) that attach to the paddle and then to the kayak. At some point in time for a variety of reasons your paddle may fall overboard. The leash will keep it within reach. These low cost items may prevent a trip into becoming a disaster.

One smart thing to do is to smash down the barbs on all of your hooks. I would rather risk losing a fish because of no barbs then try to wrangle out a fishhook with hooks that have penetrated my ear or other body part.  

If rain is in the forecast, a rain jacket of some sort may say the day. Lightweight rain jackets or ponchos can easily be stored under a kayak hatch or compartment. My best anti-rain insurance is a rain jacket onboard. In the event the temperature drastically drops during a rain storm, first put on your PFD, then the rain jacket. The PFD will help you retain body heat and retard the possibility of hyperthermia.  

Lastly a communication device of some sort can really come in handy in case of an emergency. A cel phone works pretty well in the Lighthouse Lakes and Brown & Root areas. Motorola type radios can help keep a fishing party apprised of everyone’s whereabouts. If you budget allows, a VHF radios is tops in contacting the Coast Guard if an emergency arises. Any of these may also have a weather channel alert feature which will come on automatically in the event severe weather is detected. 

While the majority of kayakers on the Texas middle coast paddle along in 15 inches of water, we still have to keep in mind the hazards that can cost us our lives while on the water. That is why paddling safety measures makes cents.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, August 2004, Kayak Column, Lock Stock and Ferrules

Kayak sales are blowing and going as the popularity of fishing from this craft has exploded. More kayaks are on the water in the mornings and at hotel parking lots the night before. Thieves looking for a quick buck can profit easily if kayaks owners do not take minimum security measures while on the road.

Once a kayak has been loaded on a vehicle or a trailer, some sort of cable and lock must be used to ensure that they kayak will still be there in the morning. Years ago the only products available were bicycle cable locks. They did work but the cables were thinner than what was desired and a separate lock had to be also purchased.  

Today there are thicker cables available with built in locks. The Python available from Master Lock features a plastic coated 3/8 inch thick steel braided cable. The cable is 6 feet long and has a lock at the end which can cinch down on the cable at any length.  

The key to using any cable is to run one end through one of the scupper holes on the kayak and loop it through the luggage rack, kayak rack, or trailer opening.  

While any cable can be cut, the thicker cables will slow down any thief or may make another kayak more desirable than yours.  

Metal chain is one low cost option but the bare metal rattling on the paint of your vehicle may be undesirable. Plastic coated chain would be a better choice.  

Never assume your kayak is safe on the driveway at your house, in front of a busy grocery store, or in the parking lot of a restaurant unless a locked cable is in place.  

Staying at a well lit motel or hotel, that has overnight security, will let you sleep without a worry. Placing fishing gear and other valuables inside the room is a smart move. Tipping the security guard would not hurt either. 

To a degree all kayaks look alike unless they have some personal identifying marks on them like having your name painted on it, fishing gear stickers placed on it, or decorated with some artwork. Although applying paint or stickers to a kayak is difficult in itself due to the chemical composition of the kayak, applying some sort of identifying mark or marks is a good idea. The key to getting good adhesion is to prep the surface. Try scrubbing the surface with alcohol to remove any lingering mold release chemicals. This will allow the paint or adhesive to stick better. New spray paints have been recently introduced that are made to bond to a variety of plastics. Some paint companies even make and recommend a “primer” for plastics for even better adhesion.  

Any kayak with personalized markings will be lower on a thief’s totem pole because it will be harder to resell unless they take the time to remove these markings. Even if they do remove the markings the UV light from the sun will leave shadows making it easy to identify to police.  

The vehicle you use to transport your kayak is also a target for thieves. Once you have launched in the early morning and have paddled away you are at the mercy of anyone who drives up and does a smash and grab. Car alarms may sound but if you are parked in a remote location no one will hear it.  

There may be safety in numbers but if several kayaks are on the water and again no one is within reach then thieves can hit several vehicles all at once. In the past this has happened at remote boat ramps. Short of carrying a high powered rifle (which I do NOT recommend) in your kayak and scoping your vehicle from time to time, your are at the mercy of unscrupulous individuals.  

The best you can do is to make sure all doors are locked and valuables are out of sight. Multi-piece rods which are not going to be used should be disassembled and hidden. Extra reels, cameras, etc should also be hidden or placed inside of your kayak. Parking at well known launching spots will help because near constant traffic will keep the bad guys away. Parking at areas where people commonly fish from the bank or camp is also a good spot. 

In the event your kayak is stolen, report it immediately and supply pics of it on paper and on a CD to police. A picture file is easier to distribute within the police system. For insurance purposes I would recommend taking several overlapping pictures of the top deck. This will show any accessories that have been added. Also take pictures of any markings that have been added.  

If a serial number is burned into your kayak, record that information. If there is no serial number, make one up and add it. Borrow an engraver from your local police department and burn it in. In the past burning in your drivers license number was the norm but with ID theft being an issue that is no longer recommended. The key overall is to make your kayak identifiable in the event it is recovered. 

Several years ago a hotel chain came up with the slogan of “The best surprise is no surprise.” Coming out of a hotel room at 4:30am it is best not to have a surprise waiting for you. The best bet for that to happen is to lock up your stock and your rod ferrules too.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, July 2004, Kayak Column, Paddle Power, Part 2, How to Paddle Properly

Last month we went through the steps of choosing a paddle. This month we will look at how to use it correctly. 

The first step is to grasp the paddle with your hands apart about shoulder wide. If you have trouble finding that spot on a consistent basis, place some electrical tape marking where your hands should be. Electrical tape tends to be very water resistant and will stay in place for a long time. Also do not hold the paddle with what I call a “death grip.” Relax and try to hold it with the minimum amount of force. 

The extra expense spent on a premium paddle is often wasted due to an incorrect paddling technique. Most often paddlers will only extend and bend their elbows to propel themselves across the water. While this method works it will also tire a paddler prematurely because only a few body parts are involved. This method also does not develop a lot of power. If anything over the course of the day less power is transformed through the paddle as the paddler begins to get tired. 

A better way is what I call the “Reverse Boxing” method. A boxer in a prize fight does not extend his arm to throw a blow. Instead they will rotate at the waist which in turn rotates the shoulders so that the whole upper body is used to throw the punch. The more body parts that are used enable more power to be projected.  

In the “Reverse Boxing” method, instead of rotating forward to throw a blow, rotate back to pull the paddle through the water. Your shoulders (and waist) should rotate and stay almost parallel to the paddle shaft. Very minimal elbow bending is involved. If you are doing it correctly, a noise should be created from your shirt or PFD rubbing against the paddle seat as you rotate.  

To even things out, push forward with the arm that is going in the opposite direction. Do not let it go for a free ride. 

This method will give you more power and actually is easier to paddle around after you get used to it. Initially at the end of the day more body parts may require some Tylenol but over the long run the stress on your elbows will lessen and you will develop what is called the “shoulders of steel.”  

Another thing to keep in mind is to keep the paddle in a low angle in relation to the water surface. Shallow water flats almost force you to do this because a high angle will have you hitting the bottom almost constantly. The touring blade profile that was discussed last month works best with a low profile angle. As the blade is drawn back it should not flutter or wobble. 

The last thing to consider is whether to “feather” your blades. Feathering is where the paddle blades are NOT lined up straight. The advantage of this is that one blade is making contact with the water while the other blade is slicing through the air rather facing the air. This lowers the air resistance and really comes in handy when paddling into the wind. For this arrangement to work, one hand grips the paddle while the shaft rotates through the other hand. In each stroke the blade in the water makes full contact with the water while the blade in the air makes minimal contact with the air.  

Low end paddles may not have a feathering option. When a two-piece paddle is assembled there may be one, two, or three positions (or holes) for aligning the blades. If there is only one hole then the blades will line up straight in-line with no option of feathering. If there are two holes then the blade made be feathered in one direction and usually in the direction for right-handers. Three holes indicate feathering in either direction. Some of the newer paddles like the Werner brand can be feathered in various degrees in both directions. 

Some people like to kayak to be able to fish from a sneaky platform, some people like to bird watch because they can get closer to the birds than on land, and others just like to tour around and explore. Whatever the reason, both parties are also out there for the physical workout kayaking provides. Paddling correctly will get more body parts involved and put you on the path to more paddle power.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, June 2004, Kayak Column, "Paddle Power, Part 1"

One piece of equipment just important as your kayak is the paddle that you use to propel yourself through the water. Countless types of kayaks has created countless of types of paddles.

 The first thing to consider is the blade shape. Assuming that the majority of your kayak fishing will be done on the shallow water flats then the blade to consider is the “Touring Blade.” This blade is long and narrow compared to whitewater blades which are short and fat. The shape of the touring blade is almost rectangular but rounded off at the corners. This rounding off, gives it an asymmetrical shape, which means that the surface area of the blade in the water equals the portion above the water. The keeps the blade from fluttering or wiggling in your hands, as you draw back on the blade while paddling.

 The second factor is the length. Paddles are measured in centimeters with 230cm being the most common. 240cm long paddles tend to be used by taller than average paddlers as well as people that have a wider kayak.  220cm are also available for shorter than normal people. It is best to borrow a paddle from a companion and try it on your kayak to see what length feels best. Some kayak shops might have some variety in their rental fleet to try, but it won’t be varied as their kayak fleet. Plus most will be low end paddles.

 Weight of the paddle is primarily a factor of the materials used in its construction. The lighter the weight, the higher the cost. A low end paddle costing under $100 might have an aluminum shaft with a nylon blade. The paddles in this category might be near indestructible but they weigh the most at over 40 oz.  

The middle of the line paddles ($100 to $200) typically have a fiberglass shaft and a fiberglass blend blade. These are a little bit lighter, weighing between 30 and 40 oz.

 The top of the line paddles ($330 to $380) use lightweight carbon for their shaft and blades. The weight drops to below 30oz and could be 16 oz (1 full Coke can) lighter than the low end paddle. While these differences do not seem that great, once you are on the water the “swingweight” becomes apparent after paddling all day.

 While most paddles comes in 2 pieces for ease in transportation, there are a few paddles available in a 1 piece configuration The Werner Camano Ultralight Carbon for example weighs only 22 oz but its length must be accommodated.

 In the movie “Steel Magnolias” one of the ladies remarks that “It is the ability to accessorize that separates humans from animals.” Paddle accessories are few but important. Drip rings are standard equipment on most paddles. These are positioned on the shaft near the blades. These rings keep the water from running down the shaft and into your lap. A paddle leash is a must item. Commercially available leashes run about $20. Homemade ones made of stretch cord cost a few dollars to make. While losing your paddle is not that common, it only takes one time to get stranded to convince anybody that it is a necessary piece of gear on the water. Paddle bags are not that common but if you spend over $300 on a high end paddle, a bag might be a good idea to protect your investment.

 The last thing to consider is color. White blades are common and are visible from afar. This increases your visibility while on the water. Often the white blades going up and down are the first things a boater sees in their path ahead of them.  Other bright colors are available from different manufacturers with yellow being a great second choice. One drawback to ultra-light top of the line paddles is that their carbon blades are black in color and offer no help alerting others to your presence. Short of spray painting them white or yellow, perhaps in the future paddle manufacturers can alter their color to a more visible one.

 Next month, Part 2, How to Paddle Properly.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, May 2004, Kayak Column, "10 Steps to Spring into a Kayak Cure"

Spring has arrived and many kayakers are sick from cabin fever and are chomping at the bit to hit the water. The perfect remedy is a warm sunny day with low winds, and a mid-calf high tide on a saltwater flat. But before you grab that paddle, investigate and first do some self checks prior to hitting the water.

 First check your kayak. While sitting in storage over the winter months your kayak did not move, but some shifting did occur albeit on a metallurgical level.

1.    Saltwater will corrode most metal items over time. If you have a rudder make sure the metal wire cables are not stuck in place. Shoot some lubricant like spray silicone into the plastic guide tubes. This will loosen it up and prevent it from freezing in place. Also make sure the foot pedals move up and down freely.

2.    Check all of the fasteners that are used to screw down items like rod holders and GPS mounts. While stainless steel fasteners are recommended, remember they are stain-less not stain-proof. Remove and replace any highly corroded ones.

3.    Check your high-backed seat. The snap swivel buckles are made of brass but the springs inside of them are not. Over time the spring will lose its action and refuse to close. Replace any defective buckles.

4.    I use carabiners on the ends of various ropes I carry on board with me. These will also corrode and not close correctly. Replace where needed.

 Secondly, check yourself. If you did not kayak over the winter months or just recently bought a kayak then your body and mind needs to get in shape.

5.    Participate in a weight training/lifting regimen. Those arms and shoulders need to get tuned up prior to hitting the water. On a recent trip a couple of my companions were huffing and puffing by noon time. Although at the end of the day we had only covered 3 ½ miles, they thought we had paddled to the moon. Had they been in better shape prior to their first trip of the year, their intake of pain relievers would have been a lot less.

6.    Take a class on how to use a kayak in the pursuit of redfish. Rookie kayak owners may know how to canoe freshwater or may have some experience wading a saltwater flat, but taking a class will shorten the learning curve. My “Kayak 4 Redfish” classes coming up in June is a good example of learning how to paddle, cast, and spot redfish while using a kayak. While there is no one big secret, you will learn the little stuff that becomes the building blocks for a strong kayaking foundation. Check local paddle shops or outfitters for their summer class schedules.

 Thirdly check where to go. Rookies and veterans are always on the lookout for new spots to fish.

7.    Surf the net for recent fishing reports or hot spots. The internet provides instant information with just a few mouse clicks. Websites like the “TKF” (www.texaskayakfisherman.com), Team Oso (www.teamoso.com), or Corpusfishing.com (www.corpusfishing.com) sites all have message boards where you can post inquiries or see what other kayakers have to say about their recent fishing trips.

8.    A book like Phil Shook and Chuck Scates’ “Fly Fishing the Texas Coast” is a good saltwater guide. Although aimed at fly fishers, conventional anglers can find good “where to” information nevertheless.

9.    Maps have come a long way recently. The creation of the various kayaking trails has given birth to poster and hand-held size maps of several locations along the coast. These maps are aerial photographs which have trails and trail markers depicted on them. They also list marker GPS coordinates which help you wander around the back areas and lakes.

 Lastly, check with the pros. Presently there are not a whole lot of coastal kayak guides but the ones that exist are out on the water on a constant basis. Check with them to see what areas are hot or what lure/fly is raking the big ones in.

10. The best bet for success is to hire a guide. Let their years of experience shorten your learning curve. Forget about filling up the stringer and think about filling up your mind with information, tactics, and good places to fish.

 With the right prescription, spring is a good time to put an end to cabin fever. As with any fishing disease, the best way to vanquish it is to visit Dr. Redfish in his office.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, April 2004, Kayak Column, "Kayaker Killed"

TPWD Game Warden Fred Acosta confirmed the death of kayaker Dean Harvey of San Marcos. Harvey died from drowning after being thrown off of his kayak while crossing the Aransas Pass Shrimp Channel. Witnesses confirm that a 18 to 20 foot white and blue colored bay boat narrowly avoided colliding with a green colored kayak but  the resulting wake ejected the paddler. Fellow kayakers were unable to reach Harvey in time before he disappeared beneath the water. Acosta attributes the lack of wearing a PFD as the prime cause of death. Harvey’s body was later recovered . . . 

The story above is NOT true, but unfortunately some day this year it might be. The ever increasing number of kayakers on the water mixed with an uneducated boating community is a potential recipe for disaster. In the above fictional scenario both sides made mistakes.  

This kayaker might have made a better choice in picking a brighter, more visible color of kayak. While yellow, orange, or red are better choices, blues and greens are to be avoided unless they are very bright. The objective is to be seen by other kayakers, boaters, etc. This is not the time to blend into your surroundings. Because kayaks sit so low in the water anything that helps increase their visibility is welcome. 

Although the story did not say what time of day the fictional incident happened, but had it occurred in the pre-dawn hour or after sundown, kayak and motor boats are both required to have a light visible 360 degrees. 

Our fictional kayaker might have survived being thrown out of his kayak had he been wearing a PFD. In 2002 and 2003, 84 people drowned who were not wearing PFD’s according to TPWD Marine Enforcement Chief, Alfonso Campos. While wearing a PFD is not mandatory for kayakers, having one within reach is required. Most shallow water flats in the middle and lower Texas coast are accessible by crossing a deep channel. It is always prudent to wear a PFD while crossing these channels. 

The PFD’s made for kayakers are preferable due to their low profile and have ample arm room for paddling, but any Coast Guard approved PFD will do. Another option is the suspender style which inflates upon yanking on the lanyard or the automatic version which inflates upon contact with water. 

Depending on the day of the week and time of day, any channel might be as busy as the highway loop in Houston or San Antonio during rush hour. Caution must be exercised when crossing a channel. While looking left or right before moving forward is sensible, you must be able to gauge an approaching bay boat before attempting to cross in front of it.  

The boater in this example could have avoided the incident by keeping a better watch of what is in front of him. This particular area borders the Lighthouse Lake Trails which is fast becoming the center of the universe for Texas kayakers. The huge increase of kayaks on the water means more caution has to be exhibited by boaters when kayaks are around. Because kayaks have no motor, they have the right of way, much like a sailboat. Boating education classes need to emphasize this point and also include “kayak” along with sailboats in the motor-less definition. Most fishermen in bay boats rarely encounter a sailboat in their average trip to a shallow water trip so this point is sadly underscored.  

The next thing a boater has to consider is the wake created by their speed. The rules state “It is unlawful for any person to operate so as to cause a hazardous wake or wash.”  A kayak is more vulnerable to a boat wake due to its smaller mass and slower speed compared to a typical bay boat. When encountering a kayak it is best to slow to no-wake speed prior to reaching the vicinity of the kayak. The worst a boater can do is to come to an abrupt stop within the vicinity of a kayak. This abrupt movement will cause a bigger wake (swell) than if the boater continued at a constant speed.  

Bay boaters need to look behind them to see what their wake is doing or most importantly, what is it doing to others. Unfortunately a kayaker will encounter a severe wake heading their way at some point in their travels. The best thing to do is to point your kayak into the wake and let the bow of your kayak take the blow. Some water may come over the bow but that is better than getting hit sideways and possibly overturning (rotating) your kayak. 

If your wake does rotate a kayak, circle back and help the kayaker. Failure to stop and render aid is against the law. If death or serious injuries occur, then the boater faces a felony. 

Also when operating in narrow confines like a channel or when visibility is limited due to weather or vegetation, a boater’s best chance to avoid an accident is to operate at a slower speed. Running at full speed reduces your reaction time, plus boats have no brakes that will enable them to stop on a dime. 

Last year I witnessed a kayaker paddle across a channel right after sunup when he was engulfed by a legion of high speed boats heading offshore for a kingfish tournament. It was unclear from my vantage point if the kayaker misjudged the time needed to cross the channel due to the unusually high speed of these boats or if he wanted to prove a point about who had the right away.  

In no time the kayaker was surrounded by these boats. Fellow kayaker, Larry Stonecipher, who also witnessed the incident, said “He reminded me of a squirrel trying to make it across a street during 5:00 o'clock rush hour. He was bobbing like a cork in their wakes.” We were both surprised he was not swamped or outright run over. 

Larry also says that “It is up to the kayaker to be aware of where the boats are at all times and respect their speed.” Larry emphasizes a kayaker must be a “defensive player” when on the water.  

A kayaker can ensure his safety by traveling in numbers, being highly visible as possible, file a float plan with family or friends, and carry a camera to record any violations. 

A boater needs to remember the newest member of the waterways has no motor, runs at a slower speed, and sits low in the water.  

The huge increase in kayak sales means more encounters with boats will occur. Hopefully when their paths cross it will be a safe one. The safe usage of the waterways is in everyone’s best interest. With the rules of the road to direct us and common sense to guide us, there is no need for either party to be dead right.

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, January 2004, Kayak Column, "Kayak Maintenance"

For many of us, winter signals the end of kayaking on the flats. Although our winters in Texas are not that severe, some fishing is possible. After a cold front passes through the bright blue sky and calm winds offer a short window of pleasant fishing. There is no need to arrive early and it is best to wait for the sun to rise. The shallow flats will warm up first and redfish can be found there as they seek their comfort zone.  

Those paddlers that don’t fish during winter should spend the winter months repairing, maintaining, and storing their kayak appropriately. 

After the last trip of the season wash your kayak thoroughly. Brushes that are connected to a long handle that are then connected to a water hose are ideal for flushing and brushing away salt and sand. Try to make contact with every surface with special attention to crooks and crannies.  

Also wash out the inside. Most sit-on-top kayaks have a watertight hatch or two. If you have stored fish in there it pays to rinse it out and to let it air out. A drain hole can be installed if your kayak does not have one. A manual kayak bilge pump can also be used to extricate the water quite quickly. 

Once the kayak has thoroughly dried, lubricate the steel rudder cables (assuming you have a rudder). There will be two entry and two exit points where the cables connect from the foot pedals to the rudder frame. An aerosol can of spray silicone is the top choice. Silicone displaces water and lubricates against corrosion. This product can be found in auto part stores and at home centers. Avoid retail products like WD-40 which tends to gum up after repeated applications.

 Kayak accessories like paddles, cushioned seats, and ropes also need a thorough washing and drying. Various metal parts like karabiners and brass seat attachments need to be lubricated in addition to washing and drying. 

If you happened to cruise over any oyster beds during the summer, chances are you made contact with them during periods of low tides. Turn your kayak over and inspect for raised scratches, curly cues, or even gouges. Any raised plastic can increase drag and slow your paddling speed to some degree. 

The plastic that your kayak is composed of is too hard for sandpaper to abrade. Heat is the best option in repairing the kayak bottom. A mini-torch is ideal to soften the plastic and make it pliable enough to re-form back in place. A putty knife can help blend in the heated plastic. Raised scratches and curly cues can be smoothed down in this manner. A heat gun can also be used, but in both cases exercise caution and avoid overheating of the kayak bottom. 

Gouges or holes can be plugged up. The first step is to contact your kayak manufacturer and have them send you a piece of plastic that is the same composition as your kayak. Cut the piece to fill the gap and heat it up with one of the two methods described above. The repair might not look pretty but it will keep you from sinking. 

Kayak storage is not complicated. Most kayak manufacturers recommend not storing it in direct sunlight. The sun may cause some fading. A product like “303 Protectant” can protect it from the sun and restore the shine to the kayak surface. Various kayak wall racks exist as well as some where you can suspend it from the ceiling from your garage. If you do suspend it, do not do it from the grab loops which are found on the each end. Align the straps about one-third from each end. 

Outside storage is OK if the kayak is well covered with a tarp. Just make sure rainwater cannot collect on top of it and that the ends are closed off so birds cannot nest in there next spring. 

Winter might also be a good time to add accessories or re-rig the current ones. After drilling a hole to surface mount an item like a rod holder, squeeze some clear caulk around the fastener. The caulk will seal any small gaps and prevent water from getting inside your kayak.  

Stainless steel nuts and bolts are preferable but in the event you cannot reach underneath to add the nut, then pop rivets are the only choice. Remember stainless hardware, although very durable against the corrosive salt and sand, are not stain-proof. They just stain less. Pan-head bolts are best since they lie flat and use locknuts rather than regular nuts. The locknuts have a hard plastic material inserted in them. This prevents the nuts from vibrating loose. Also include two stainless steel washers.  

The pop rivets that are used on kayaks cannot be bought at the local hardware store. The desired ones are of a different size and make compared to the ones used in construction. These will have to be obtained from a kayak shop. Beg, borrow, or purchase a handful and keep them handy. As mentioned above, only use pop rivets when you cannot reach inside to add a nut to a stainless steel bolt. 

Through the years I have guided clients with rod holders that have broken off during the day, joints that leak, and rudders that are rusted in place. A little off-season maintenance can prevent on-the-water headaches which can turn a memorable trip into a trip from hell. A kayak that is maintained properly can last many years and provide a lot of enjoyment for a very long time. For more info check the kayak rigging page at www.leftyray.com

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, Sept/Oct 2003, Kayak Column, "Do's and Don'ts of Kayaking"

The huge increase of sit-on-top kayak sales has increased the number of paddling anglers out on the shallow flats chasing reds and specs. Whether out by yourself, with friends, or with a guide, I continue to see to see the same mistakes made by kayakers which guarantees no fish will be caught or turns the trip into a chore that may range into a near disaster.

 Here are few tips that may turn you into a champ rather than chump when fishing with a kayak.

1.    Practice casting before arriving at the coast. If this is THE TRIP of the summer then most fly anglers need to practice way before hitting the water. Most of the practice should involve hurling a fly line at least 75 feet. You typically do not need to throw that far but if you can, then shooting distances of 45 to 65 feet will easier for you. Also practice with a cross wind and a head wind. The wind will almost never be exactly coming from behind so don’t be fooled by a tail wind while practicing. 

Conventional casters need to practice accuracy. The longer distances these rods can throw are often offset by a bigger margin of accuracy. Purchase a hula-hoop and practice casting into it from a variety of distances. This will crate a habit of picturing a target in your mind when casting to a sighted fish like a tailing red. 

2.    Paddle from the waist not the elbows. The more body parts that are used while paddling, the easier the paddling becomes. Envision a boxer. When they throw a punch, they rotate at the waist which rotates their shoulders which cumulates in using their body weight behind the punch. A strong blow ensues. Were a boxer to simply extend his arms at the elbow a very weak punch would be thrown.  

 The same thing happens in paddling except in reverse. When pulling back on the blade, pull back with your shoulder and rotate at the waist.   This will create a more stronger stroke and move the kayak easier through the water. A fast paddling stroke is not essential, just concentrate on getting a good purchase with the blade of the paddle. While pulling back with that one arm, push with the other arm. Let it help rather than just go forward for a free ride.  

By using several body parts you will not tire as easily and will be able to paddle farther and longer. The probable intake of Tylenol will also be reduced. 

3.    Rig for Speed. My aim while paddling on a shallow water flat is to scan the water for signs of redfish. When I detect a positive sign, I want to drop the anchor, secure the paddle, step out of the kayak, grab my rod, and cast. All within 5 to 8 seconds AND without taking my eyes off of the fish sign (tail, wake, etc.).  

Most of the anglers I see fumble around and take too much time. Speed in getting ready to cast is essential, otherwise the fish will move out of casting range. Being able to do this without making excessive noise is also important. 

The key is to do all of this without taking your eyes off of the fish sign. Often a tailing redfish may not come back up or a wake may dissipate. By keeping your eyes on the target you will have a better guess where to place your cast.   

4.    Wear the correct footwear. The flats booties which zip-up or the newer versions which lace-up are the ideal footwear for wading the flats. Low cut water shoes will not work. Invariably you will step into a soft spot and sink. The water shoe may get stuck and may be lost very easily. Felt bottom boots which are worn for coldwater trout fishing will work in a pinch but remember the felt is made to stick to slick surfaces and will stick to muddy flat bottoms too. This will make wading more difficult than it has to be and wear you out prematurely. Diving booties will also work in a pinch but their thin soles will telegraph whatever you step on right through the boot. An add-on insole will help but not much. 

5.    Prepare for the hot sun. The summers in Texas are hot and even hotter when the wind speed drops. A good hat is essential along with a sunscreen with a minimum rating of 40SPF. I prefer long-sleeved shirts versus short-sleeved ones. Zip-off wading pants are great but tuck in the bottom of the legs into your wading booties. The extra loose fabric will create noise while wading and introduce more water in the kayak. Sun gloves are a recent addition. These will keep the sun off of your hands and prevent calluses from paddling. Above all do not over do it. Casual coastal anglers are not typically accustomed to the overall impact the sun will have on you and driving back looking like a lobster is no fun.  

6.    Take a PFD (per person). As I mentioned above the Texas summer sun is nice and hot. Wearing a PFD only makes it hotter and more uncomfortable. However the good folks at the TPWD will give you a ticket if you do not have on a PFD or have one handy (as in within reach). They do not care if you were the Texas UIL state swimming champion, rules are rules. In most case we wear the PFD while crossing a deep channel to access a flat. Once on the other side of the flat we tend to remove the PFD and stow it within reach. The straps on top of kayak hatches are handy for keeping a hold of a PFD. Do not throw it on top without some means of securing it down. I have seen PFD’s blown off of kayaks and some have fallen off without the paddler detecting it. A noise maker (loud whistle) is also required by TPWD. This whistle can be attached to any PFD very easily. 

7.    Assume everything will get wet. Typically my wading shorts do not get wet during the course of the day while paddling on a flat. My camera gear also does not get wet. A freezer-bag style zip-lock baggy is perfect for stowing wallets, cell phones, car beepers, etc. Some waterproof clear-sided bags are also on the market to waterproof your valuables. By all means do not paddle or wade with your cell phone clipped to your waistline. Just recently I had a gentleman fall while wading cause he was wearing felt bottomed boots and ruined his cell phone which was clipped to his belt. Most cell phones can be operated through a baggy.  

8.    Listen to your guide or fishing partner(s). Chances are they have been fishing with kayaks longer than you have. Become a sponge and keep an open mind. If they say “wade quieter,” then do it. Or if they say “let the fly sink longer,” do it. They are not trying to insult you, but trying to help you catch more fish. 

Kayaking for redfish should be a fun sport and not a chore. By following a few helpful tips hopefully your memories will be full of fish tales and not horror yells. For more info: www.leftyray.com

Saltwater Texas Newspaper, August 2003, Kayak Column, "Buying a New Kayak"

Using a sit-on-top kayak has become a very popular fishing platform on our Texas saltwater coast. Each week more and more paddlers are out there looking for tailing reds, the spec of a lifetime, or a shark that is as long as they are tall. “Sit-on-top” or SOT’s differ from traditional “sit-inside” Eskimo type models in that your legs are exposed in an open cockpit rather than encased in an enclosed cockpit. This configuration allows you to jump out rather quickly in the event you come across a school of reds on a shallow water flat. It also enables you to access the surf without getting a boat full of water. Drain holes are present to keep you afloat much like the self bailing feature in bay boats.

 Wannabe kayakers shopping for a kayak come across numerous brands and models. The number one question I encounter is “What SOT should I buy?” Before that question can be answered a prospective buyer should decide what type of water will be fished the majority of the time? The buyer should also decide if they want a high speed or a highly stable boat. Kayak design and construction involves a tradeoff. It will give you one extreme or the other, but not both. While a few models fit either category, there are many that fit somewhere in between. Not one kayak will do all things great but will do one or two things nicely.

 There are three top fishing uses for kayaks and each has its own list of desirable traits. The first is to use it as a method of transportation where the angler paddles from point A to point B and then jumps out to wade in shallow water. The second is fishing from the kayak in un-wadable water because the bottom is too deep to wade or too soft to wade safely. The third use is to transport hard-to-cast baits in the surf.

 If you fall in the first group then speed and ease of paddling might be the primary concern. Amancio Cantu, a paddler from San Antonio, likes his Perception Prism because he can paddle out on a saltwater flat like the Brown & Root area with minimum effort and yet get to his destination quickly. High stability is not a concern since he is paddling in mid-calf high water. Some anglers like to stand up in the kayaks and pole themselves around. To do that a more stable boat would be required. “The Ride” from Wilderness Systems is a perfect example of a very stable boat. Again the tradeoff is that it is not very fast and is harder to paddle.

 Anglers that plan to primarily fish from their kayaks should consider boats that lean toward the stable end of the spectrum. The Tarpon or the Bimini are two examples of kayaks that have good stability yet adequate speed. Being able to reach various pieces of gear while seated in the cockpit, without taking a spill, rates high on the list of angler requirements.

 While fishing in either shallow water or deep water, the typical kayak length will range from 12 to 16 feet long. These boats are characterized by their long and narrow profile. Either situation presents primarily flat water with some current movement so this configuration works well.

 Using a kayak in the surf presents a whole new set of circumstances. Tyler Thorsen of Corpus Christi recommends a short but wide kayak for ferrying out shark baits into the 3^rd gut and beyond. Fighting the waves and moderate to strong tidal movement presents a challenge. The maneuverability of a kayak increase as its length gets shorter. A very flat bottom also makes it very stable and reduces the chance of taking a tumble. The “Frenzy” and the “Scrambler XT” models are common sites along the Padre Island National Seashore.

Regardless of its use, kayak color selection is important. Pick a bright highly visible color for safety reasons. Stories abound of kayakers almost run over by motor boats who did not see them until the last minute because of their low profile and also because the kayak color blended in with the water color. Shades of bright yellow, red, neon blue or neon green are good choices.

 A storage compartment is usually found on the forward part of the kayak. A removable hatch allows entry for storing perhaps a small ice chest or camera bag. The rear of a kayak may have another hatch or a “tank well” which is a slot where a scuba diving tank can be placed. Most fisherman use bungee cords to secure a plastic milk crate in the slot instead. This creates additional storage space and is often adorned with multiple rod holders.

 Kayak prices will run generally around $600 on average but expect to spend typically $1,000 once the needed accessories are taken into account. The joke among seasoned kayakers is that once the boat is bought, the accessories cost $100 dollars each. The basic accessory list includes a paddle, a padded seat, a PFD, and a method for securing the kayak to your vehicle. While each one may run into three figures it is possible to scrimp but just remember that you get what you pay for.

 Paddle prices are related to their overall weight. The lighter the paddle, the higher the price. Space age materials have enabled paddles to weigh less than ever before and yet remain strong. Consult your local kayak shop for a good paddle recommendation which will be based on the kayak you will be using, typical water depth, and your height.

A “high” backed padded seat is essential for comfortable paddling. These support your back adequately allowing you to paddle all day. Some seats include built in rod holders on the rear of the seat while other models include a storage pouch. Some of the newer seats have a hydration pack so you can sip some water without having to stop paddling. Expect any of these types of seats to cost around one hundred dollars each.

 SOT’s have spawned a new PFD requirement. While a basic boating PFD will work and meet the TPWD regulations, a PFD that is high cut and has deep arm holes is highly desirable. Models specifically made for women are also available with a variety of fashionable colors. The PFD must be worn or be within easy reach.

 Transporting your kayak to and from the water’s edge is the last major hurdle. At the minimum, a pair of foam blocks and two web straps will tie the kayak down to just about any type of vehicle. Dedicated after-market roof racks and form fitting saddles offer a more secure hold but also cost more.

 Browsing through any kayak shop can certainly be confusing. Discuss thoroughly your fishing requirements with the shop personnel and explore possible different models. The best advice is “Try before you buy.” Most shops rent kayaks and offer current models in their inventory. An afternoon of testing can only lead to a lifetime of pleasurable paddling. For more info www.leftyray.com